Children are amazing. Especially the young ones. Honest and without judgment, they say what's on their mind. Not sure we're always ready to hear them, but if we take the time to listen we're bound to learn something new.
"Were you born that color?" Zalika asked me during one of our creative writing sessions last week.
"What color?" I answered not sure where this was going.
"That color," she said, pointing at my face.
"You mean white?"
"Yes," she said.
"Yes, I was born white."
"Do you like being white?"
"Yeah, but I have to be careful when I'm in the sun, because my skin gets burned and I don't like it when it gets red."
"Do you like black people?" Zalika asked.
"Sure I do."
"Why?" she asked.
"I like all people," I answered in my 1960's way.
"I thought white people hated black people in America."
"Some do I guess, but it's a lot more complicated than that."
"You must love black people then?"
"Why?"
"Because you're living here with us."
"I"m living here with you, because I like you," I said, and threw my arm over her shoulder to bring her close to me.
She hugged back and the conversation moved on to other things, but the replay of what she said has been with me all week.
Today is Christmas and I want to wish you all a Merry Merry day surrounded by love and joy and family, music and laughter, but above all the replay of those little moments that touch the heart most of all.
Saturday, December 25, 2010
Tuesday, December 14, 2010
And then there are the buses...
Running Man, Rush, Hi Tension, Fighting Cock, Back Again, Raging Bull, Desperado, Tiger, Big Banana, Higher Level, Me Da Man; these are just a few of the names painted on the buses that take me to and from the village where I live. Powerful monikers conjuring up images jam packed with testosterone. A bit intimidating when you consider the blind turns and narrow roadways we are about to share, and there is no Click It Or Ticket law here. In fact, there are few seat belts. Buses are 12-15 passenger vans, and other than taxis or walking, they are the only transportation available to Peace Corps volunteers. (Taxis are also 12-15 passenger vans, but are mostly hired by tourists as a way for a guided visit of the island during their one day cruise ship ports of call.) I've been here long enough now to become familiar with the names of these buses recognizing them from up the road as they careen around the corner to where I am waiting to board. I've also come to know the distractions of the drivers of each vehicle, whether it be talking with the passenger in the front seat - gesturing wildly, immersed in conversation, usually political - or singing along with music blasting from the radio, mostly spiritual songs of praise, demonstratively sung by the driver with a bold zeal and only one hand on the wheel. In spite of the immediate fervency of these chosen distractions, I am convinced that all drivers possess a secret dream of one day being featured at Nascar, a sport and a venue I have yet to learn to appreciate.
The road from Cayon to Basseterre follows mostly parallel to the Atlantic, but unlike the ocean shore it's path is windy and sometimes treacherous imploring good sense. moderate speeds and caution. With legendary curves and hairpin turns there are parts that are reminiscent of the canyons that lead from Malibu and the Pacific Coast Highway to the valleys of San Fernando and Ventura. It is a beautiful drive following the ocean vista, but too often it turns into an anguishing experience as impatient drivers blow on by more cautious travelers with a honk and a wave, maneuvers that would send me to my knees if I were the kind to genuflect in fear. The funny thing is, there are several points in this 10 mile stretch of road that require a driver to almost come to a stop as gates warn of impending train tracks or extreme dips in the otherwise level surface. And then there are the passengers to pick up or drop off along the way - a hand suddenly flagging roadside for a lift or a voice shouting from inside, "stay here" - the driver reacting in an instant; pulling over, slamming on brakes, while passengers shift to make room for someone new or to let someone off, all this is common and happens on every route. In the end speed has little effect on time. Not for the faint of heart riding buses in St. Kitts, but I've learned to view this part of my day as an E ticket roller coaster ride where the more harrowing the curve, the more blind the turn, the more extreme the drop, the louder the screams of thrill can be heard calling others to the experience.
I picked guavas from the tree in the backyard at my house this weekend. It was an interesting taste - refreshing though a bit sour. I'm waiting patiently for the papaya to ripen. There are at least a dozen of them hanging on the tree outside my bedroom window, green and not yet fully grown, but I check on them every morning, just in case the birds are also waiting for them to mature. There is also a mango tree, a breadfruit tree, a sugar apple tree, and a Noni tree - a tropical fruit used for medicinal purposes and said to regenerate the body. While that tree seems to be overgrown with ripe offerings, I think I'll stick with 2 Tylenol and bed rest. Max has also planted an herb garden full of chives. I have added basil and thyme - two plants which I acquired on my visit to the farm last month, and herbs which I use often in cooking.
School closed nationwide last Friday and will remain closed until January 10. The official start of Carnival is this weekend, with Calypso finals being held December 16th and 17th. Then it's Christmas on the 25th, Boxing Day on the 26th, J'Ouvert on the 27th, the Grand Carnival on January 1st, the Carnival Cooldown on January 2nd, and the Last Lap on January 3rd. Kittitians love their Carnival. You can feel it when you walk down the street, and see it in the body language of the locals; there is a whole lot of partying being planned!
Cruise ship season is also here and since tourism is at the heart of the economy on St. Kitts, it will be a long season with officials projecting some 600,000 visitors between now and May 1. I'm not sure how much the tourists of 2010 - 2011 will contribute though, even their purse strings are drawn tight with the world economy still in recession. Traditionally, St. Kitts depended on the growing and processing of sugar cane for their economic stability, but when the industry reacted to shifts in decreasing world prices, tourism became the focus. I think it's sad that this island nation and its people depend so much on the revenue of tourism for their survival, especially when you consider that tourism contributes little to the long term economy. It seems a fickle foundation when both hurricanes and crime can effectively bring it to a halt with little warning. But I understand the government is trying their best to diversify and I hope to see those positive developments take place while I'm here.
Pictures of my house:
And now my Christmas tree - courtesy of my friend Elizabeth who sent it to me from the Museum of Modern Art in New York City.
The road from Cayon to Basseterre follows mostly parallel to the Atlantic, but unlike the ocean shore it's path is windy and sometimes treacherous imploring good sense. moderate speeds and caution. With legendary curves and hairpin turns there are parts that are reminiscent of the canyons that lead from Malibu and the Pacific Coast Highway to the valleys of San Fernando and Ventura. It is a beautiful drive following the ocean vista, but too often it turns into an anguishing experience as impatient drivers blow on by more cautious travelers with a honk and a wave, maneuvers that would send me to my knees if I were the kind to genuflect in fear. The funny thing is, there are several points in this 10 mile stretch of road that require a driver to almost come to a stop as gates warn of impending train tracks or extreme dips in the otherwise level surface. And then there are the passengers to pick up or drop off along the way - a hand suddenly flagging roadside for a lift or a voice shouting from inside, "stay here" - the driver reacting in an instant; pulling over, slamming on brakes, while passengers shift to make room for someone new or to let someone off, all this is common and happens on every route. In the end speed has little effect on time. Not for the faint of heart riding buses in St. Kitts, but I've learned to view this part of my day as an E ticket roller coaster ride where the more harrowing the curve, the more blind the turn, the more extreme the drop, the louder the screams of thrill can be heard calling others to the experience.
I picked guavas from the tree in the backyard at my house this weekend. It was an interesting taste - refreshing though a bit sour. I'm waiting patiently for the papaya to ripen. There are at least a dozen of them hanging on the tree outside my bedroom window, green and not yet fully grown, but I check on them every morning, just in case the birds are also waiting for them to mature. There is also a mango tree, a breadfruit tree, a sugar apple tree, and a Noni tree - a tropical fruit used for medicinal purposes and said to regenerate the body. While that tree seems to be overgrown with ripe offerings, I think I'll stick with 2 Tylenol and bed rest. Max has also planted an herb garden full of chives. I have added basil and thyme - two plants which I acquired on my visit to the farm last month, and herbs which I use often in cooking.
School closed nationwide last Friday and will remain closed until January 10. The official start of Carnival is this weekend, with Calypso finals being held December 16th and 17th. Then it's Christmas on the 25th, Boxing Day on the 26th, J'Ouvert on the 27th, the Grand Carnival on January 1st, the Carnival Cooldown on January 2nd, and the Last Lap on January 3rd. Kittitians love their Carnival. You can feel it when you walk down the street, and see it in the body language of the locals; there is a whole lot of partying being planned!
Cruise ship season is also here and since tourism is at the heart of the economy on St. Kitts, it will be a long season with officials projecting some 600,000 visitors between now and May 1. I'm not sure how much the tourists of 2010 - 2011 will contribute though, even their purse strings are drawn tight with the world economy still in recession. Traditionally, St. Kitts depended on the growing and processing of sugar cane for their economic stability, but when the industry reacted to shifts in decreasing world prices, tourism became the focus. I think it's sad that this island nation and its people depend so much on the revenue of tourism for their survival, especially when you consider that tourism contributes little to the long term economy. It seems a fickle foundation when both hurricanes and crime can effectively bring it to a halt with little warning. But I understand the government is trying their best to diversify and I hope to see those positive developments take place while I'm here.
Pictures of my house:
 |
| Living Room |
 |
| Dining Area |
 |
| Bedroom - Master |
 |
| Guest Bedroom |
 |
| Shower |
 |
| Kitchen Sink |
 |
| Kitchen |
And now my Christmas tree - courtesy of my friend Elizabeth who sent it to me from the Museum of Modern Art in New York City.
 |
| Merry Merry |
And so it goes. I'll write again before Christmas to wish you all a merry one and to catch up on the time between now and then.
Sunday, December 5, 2010
Latkes for me and Pumpkin Pie for Max
It's Hannukah, not a holiday I've actively celebrated since the girls were young and I decided that 8 days of gifts plus Christmas plus Maggie and Caitlin's birthdays all in the month of December made the "holiday's" a bit too indulgent even for someone who loves to play Santa Claus/Hanuklaus as I do. I continued to make latkes from time to time however, and Tuesday when I realized it was the first night of Hannukah, I decided to celebrate as in the old days and make potato latkes. They were delicious! I also had some pumpkin pie filling left over from the week before and since I was in a mood to cook, I made a pumpkin pie for my neighbor Max. Max is 80, a cousin of the woman who owns the house I live in. Surrounding houses are also owned by relatives of Max and most have been in the family for almost as long as he has. Max does errands and "fix it" stuff around the neighborhood, but he is especially known for the herb garden he tends right next to my house. Last month he planted basil and thyme for me, both of which I've used several times already. (Pictures proving my expertise as a culinary artist and a laundress!)
I have been thinking a lot about "home" this past week, missing my girls, my friends, the life I've lived and wondering if my time here is being well spent. But then I remember that the life I've lived up to now has taken me on many roads, some even stranger than this, and while this road may feel more isolated and difficult because I am older and have more emotional ties, it is a challenge with the fundamental purpose of helping people, and a challenge that I want to continue to embrace for as long as I am needed and making a difference. Besides, 27 months isn't so long. One day at a time, and remember to breathe in between!
Today is my baby girl Maggie's birthday. 24, beautiful, smart, and working hard trying to figure out her tomorrow. I do question how my decisions have affected her future and I pray she understands how much I love her. My children are my heart, all 3 of them. It is clearly a day sprinkled with melancholy. The sun is shining though, and the wind is perfect for hanging my clothes on the line to dry. Listening to Frank Sinatra croon old tunes, feeling a little lonely and thinking of all of you.
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